May 22, 2023

Home

“Home [are] the sailor[s], home from the sea.” - Robert Louis Stevenson

We had a wild ride across the Atlantic. The clockwise rotation around a large high pressure south of Newfoundland created a big easterly breeze with a following sea - great conditions for a broad reach home. A low pressure coming up from Florida delivered a bunch of rain, but also a nice southeasterly push through the Gulf Stream. Fun, fast sailing until the breeze died just short of the Bay and we have to fire up the engine. Covering the 600 miles from Bermuda in just over 3 days, we begin counting down the lighthouses like mile markers.

Chesapeake Light. Seabirds, dolphins and two monster sea turtles greet us as we near the Bay entrance…140 miles to go.

We enter the Bay through the center span of the Bridge-Tunnel Complex in darkness, stillness and stars…as if we had the Bay to ourselves. Sparse traffic of a car carrier, a tanker, two cruise ships and another sixteen ships swinging listlessly at anchor waiting to head into Norfolk or up to Baltimore makes for easy navigation…120 miles to go.

Wolf Trap Light – You have got to be frickin’ kidding me! A front descends on us bringing rain and wind on our nose at 27 knots, combined with a foul current slowing our progress to a crawl. Come on man! I can almost taste the crab cakes at Boatyard Bar & Grill…100 miles to go.

Smith Point Light – Our journey’s end is timely – we just ran out of Bailey’s Irish Cream for our morning coffee. Did I mention how good the Bloody Mary’s are at Iron Rooster? Still slugging through the chop. At least the sun pokes out from behind the clouds…70 miles to go.

Update: We encounter a 24’ Carolina Skiff adrift near Smith Point. Pictures and details sent to the USCG Sector Virginia. Remained on station until Smith Point Sea Rescue arrived. Fortunately, the owner was fine and the boat had just broken free. Could have been a story with a very different ending given the rough conditions we faced last night. Vessel recovered and we’re back on our way.

Point No Point Light - who came up with that name! (Actually, there are a few of them around the country. Must be something behind that name.) Submitted our entry request electronically to US Customs & Border Patrol. Having cleared in and out of a dozen countries, I greatly appreciate being able to submit our clearance request on an app…55 miles to go.

Hooper Island Light – the light is far to starboard. I’ve had issues sailing by this light in the past. Today, the Bay has gone still again, and the water is like glass as the wind has died to 2 knots. The crew has seen 0 to 32 knots wind in still to 10 – 12 foot seas in all directions with currents reaching 4 knots crossing the Gulf Stream…45 miles to go…similar to Galveston to Freeport Race - piece of cake.

Cove Point Light – originally built for importing LNG in the 70’s, the docks are busy with export cargoes - one ship loading and another waiting empty at anchor. Almost 5pm, the blue sky is deeper and richer than the pale blue of a noonday sky…35 miles to go.

Sharp’s Island Light – a well-known principle of relativity - the closer you get, the longer the miles seem. We devour everything in the fridge; no sailing tomorrow…20 miles to go.

Bloody Point Light – our Bay, literally; no one else out here and just a few cat’s paws on a glassy surface as the sun sets. Our destination is less than a Rum Race away! 9 miles to go!

Finally, the iconic Thomas Point Light - 5 miles to go! Don’t you dare run aground now!

Passing Tolly Point signals our turn northwest into the Severn River. The domes of the Naval Academy Chapel and State House come into sight. In a few days, Naval Academy Midshipmen of the Class of 2023 will be commissioned Ensigns in the US Navy and Second Lieutenants in US Marine Corps, continuing long histories and traditions of service and honor. Godspeed.

Still waters of Back Creek part as we quietly make our way to the marina. The air is cool. The moon is a sliver. Venus is bright in the sky. Fenders are out; lines made fast. The engine is now silent. We are home.

Leaving Cape Canaveral almost 4 months ago, we covered close to 4000 nautical miles. Every day was living in a seascape by Homer or Turner - sometimes serene blues and greens; sometimes vivid oranges; sometimes stormy grays - always with incredible energy and life.

This trip was meant to be a shakedown and that it was! Double-handed cruising is very different than the racing we have done this past decade. As they say, “it’s really single-handing but you get to sleep.”

We honed our seamanship skills gaining valuable experience in challenging weather conditions, developed good team rituals, and uncovered a few failure points in the boat we would not have otherwise found in the comfort of the Chesapeake Bay. We figured out some good meals and some not so good ones; what gear works and what can stay behind. HeeJung perfected her Dark & Stormies and Painkillers.  And we definitely had a wonderful time! Meeting amazing people everywhere we went – cruisers, locals, marina staff, restaurants and boat repair.

This journey started last October when we moved Kaja to Norfolk as a staging point for sailing down to Cape Canaveral. However, all the preparations began almost a year before as we readied the boat and ourselves. One does not undertake these sorts of adventures without the help of a great team. So grateful for the all the help and sage advice from Kristen Berry at Gale Force Sailing, Jonathan Bartlett and Ridgely Mackenzie at North Sails Annapolis, Jay Herman at Annapolis Rigging, Mike Jones and Mark Jefferies at Mid-Atlantic Marine Electronics, Marc Mayo and Steve Madden at M Yacht Services and M Rigging, Kevin Hayes at Hayes Rigging, Clayton Bohart at Above Deck Rigging, Richard Krolak at Port Annapolis, Tyler Beall at Steady Seas, Patrick Tewes at Marine Electric Systems, Britton Ward at Farr Yachts, and the fantastic community of Farr 50 owners, in particular Kaja’s prior owner Soll Goldenthal. Thank you!

We are also very grateful for our wonderful families, all of you and all the encouragement along the way. Many thanks!

Like a refinery turnaround, the planning for the next one starts the moment you complete the current one. We leave for the Caribbean in early November, positioning us to begin our circumnavigation in January. Lots of projects, upgrades and repairs to do in the next five months. Let the planning begin …. but first, a haircut and a big, juicy ribeye.  

22-May-2023